Dining critic candidate No. 20

A DOOR WORTH ENTERING

Rich in décor and Spanish flavor

Tapas have become quite fashionable recently. Originally, a small plate of Spanish delicacies, placed atop your drink, to keep the elements out, today has become a trendy way to repackage standard appetizers. But, chopping an appetizer in half, tossing it on a small plate does not a tapas make.

The 9^th Door brings authenticity to historic lower downtown Denver. Walking through the heavy drapes you are met with sensuous shades of red and gold, and what I would call Spanish jazz (fabulous). We pass a fun lounge area with a bed draped in red linen as a center piece, and head to a richly upholstered long bench, with tables running along side.

Feeling warmed by the surroundings, I was pleased to get the happy hour menu (4:30-6:30pm) offering deals on Spanish cocktails, wine and select tapas. While my husband goes for his regular dirty martini, I eye two large glass canisters, on the bar, filled with the sweet flavors of wine, citrus and brandy; one white and one red and opt for their white sangria ($4), which is light and refreshing.

The lively menu is divided into hot and cold tapas, ranging from $3 for the marinated Spanish olives and toasted almonds to $12 for a beef filet with wine redux and a blue cheese sauce. Traditional Spanish and Mediterranean flavors of roasted peppers, veggies, cured meats and the finest of cheeses are presented with style.

As a woman who would take cheese over chocolate any day, I start with the fried goat cheese balls ($4). A light crunch, with the warm salty goat cheese finished nicely with a spicy/sweet honey. Definitely full flavored, but a must share, given its richness.

The Charchitaria ($8), a plate of thinly sliced cured Spanish meats had us keeping score, as to who got the last slice. The spicy marinara mussels ($5), while perfectly cooked where a little bland, and lacked the heat I was looking for; which reminded me, for the less adventurous eater, tapas are a wonderful way to try new flavors without having to commit to a large entrée.

I was a bit surprised by the Flan Limon ($5), having been used to the light eggy crème caramel, theirs is thicker than the Crème Brulee ($6), but none the less delicious. The 9^th Door, scores with its’ sexy ambiance, great service and full flavored Spanish bites.

The 9^th Door 1808 Blake Street, 303 292-2229, www.9thdoor.com